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We have worked extremely hard to put as much technical assistance into the website as possible. You can find product videos, project videos, and printable instructions in the Instructional section, which provides more details on how MoldPutty products are used. Please take some time to learn as much as possible about the products and processes from the site but if at any time during your research you have unanswered questions, please feel free to give us a call and we’ll be happy to assist you.

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The proper mix ratio is 1:1 by either weight or volume however, the Amazing Mold Putty is very forgiving and will cure even if you are off fairly significant amounts in either direction. Changing the ratio will not alter the speed in which the putty cures although it may change the physical properties and the finished mold may not be as tough or ever reach its optimum hardness.
The Amazing Mold Putty has a sister product which is Purple. The primary difference between the two formulations is that the Purple is faster. The work time of the Purple is 1.5 minutes and the demold time is less than 10 minutes. This works well if you are doing small molds and do not wish to wait 20 minutes for your mold to harden/cure. It does not work very good when you need to mix up slightly larger amounts due to the time required to mix it thoroughly does not give you much time to roll the mixed putty into a ball and press it over your item. Therefore the Yellow Amazing Mold Putty gives you a more user friendly 4 minute work time and a 15-20 demold time. If you wish to purchase or look at the Purple putty, please visit our corporate website at and then hit Products, Silicone Rubber, and then you will find the Mold Putty which is the faster purple version of the Amazing Mold Putty.
The Amazing Mold Putty is a platinum based silicone mold rubber. The platinum base can become contaminated when it comes in contacts with specific materials ... such as tin, sulfur, and vinyl. These products are often found in clays, tapes, glues, plastics and some rubber stamps. What will happen is where ever the putty comes in contact with one of these different materials, they will simply not cure. However, every where the putty does not come in direct contact with the materials, it will cure absolutely fine. If you are not sure whether the item you are about to mold using the Amazing Mold Putty contains one of these materials, it is highly recommended to mix up a very small batch of the putty and press it over a small area of your piece. Allow it to sit for 20 minutes and then remove. Notice the surface of both your original as well as the mold. Drag your finger across the surfaces to see if the mold surface smears. If it does, I would not recommend making the mold until you have either completely coated the original to protect the putty from the surface or simply choose type of master to test and then mold.
Yes. Amazing Mold Putty is food grade compliant up to 395 degrees F. This enables you to either bake food, polymer clay, or any other type of material in the mold without harming it. If you plan to use the mold for food, do not use it with any other material before putting your food product into the mold to eliminate any possibility of contamination. The Amazing Mold Putty is a very good insulator of heat, so it is highly recommended to preheat your mold as you preheat your oven to provide a more even bake process when baking food. Otherwise, your food product may cook on but because of the thickness of your mold, the heat will take much longer to reach the food in the mold cavity and make for an unevenly cooked product.
Yes. The Amazing Mold Putty will handle temperatures above 395 F but is not recommended for food above those temperatures. To provide the best mold life and the best detail reproductions when pouring low melt metals into your mold, it is highly recommended to preheat the cured mold in the oven to bring it up to a similar temperature before pouring the molten metal into the mold. This prevents the metal for solidifying as soon as it touches a cold mold and prevents a quick skin from forming. So preheat the Amazing Mold Putty mold to achieve more consistent castings and a longer mold life.
Cast Alumilite into a warm mold coated with baby powder. This will help the material flow better and cure more evenly. If you are using silicone rubber, stick the mold in an oven set at Warm for approximately 30 minutes or put your mold in a microwave on high for 1 minute per lb of rubber. Once your mold is warm to the touch, sprinkle baby powder or talc powder in the mold. Shake the powder around the mold so all areas are covered. Once covered, knock or blow out all of the excess powder. This will leave a light coat of powder on the outside of the mold that will release the surface tension and allow the material to flow much better reducing the chance of trapping air bubbles. You can also use any kind of paint or commercial brand of urethane release to aid in the problem if baby powder isnt available. For complex molds that have severe undercuts, you may need to vent those troubled areas with holes that can be created with either some copper tubing or an Excel or Exacto knife.
If you are casting a part in an open or one piece mold, pour slowly from one corner of the mold and let the material flow naturally to fill the mold. If it is possible run the material down one side of the mold. If the mold has an undercut or complex corner you may pour the material to that point and then rotate your mold to evenly coat that area before ping off the mold. If you are pouring a closed or two piece mold, fill it completely until the material comes out of the vent hole and then tap the mold on the table to release any bubbles that may need a little assistance to get through the vent hole. You may also wish to rotate the mold and possibly squeeze the sides of the mold to assist hesitant bubbles in reaching the vent.
No. Varying the ratios will not affect the working time but it will affect the cure time and physical properties. Meaning, the Amazing Casting Resin will still start to set up in it's normal time but could take hours to completely cure. When it finally does cure, it will not have the same properties of the properly mixed resin and may be considerably weaker.
Yes! To get an additional 30 - 60 seconds, cool or chill both sides of the Amazing Casting Resin in the refrigerator for an hour before mixing. When you cool the resin it is important to remember to pour into a warm mold for proper curing, especially when you are pouring small or thin parts to enable the resin to cure properly.
Typically, the reason your Amazing Casting Resin piece is soft is that the part you poured is small or thin and the resin was poured into a mold that was room temperature or even worse ... cold. The Amazing Casting Resin is exothermic, which means it generates heat as it cures. The resin needs this heat to cure properly. If the part is small and or thin and poured into a cold mold, it does not have the ability to generate the heat required to cure fully. So the material will gel and start to cure but not finish because it is lacking the heat necessary to finish curing properly. With your piece in the Amazing Mold Putty mold, simply place it in an oven at 150F or less for an hour or place it under a heat lamp for a couple hours to supply the cast piece some heat in order for it to cure.
No. The Amazing Casting Resin is opaque White and will yellow slightly over time if it is exposed to UV light. Clear acrylics or lacquers work well for protecting the resins from changing color. There are two ways of applying paint to achieve the best adhesion. First paint the mold and allow it to completely dry before casting your resin. As the resin flows into the painted mold, it will chemically bond to the paint as the resin is curing and after the resin cures you will demold a perfectly painted part. Painting the mold prior to casting allows you to reproduce perfect detail by painting becoming the outside layer of the actual part rather than cover the exact cast replica with paint that could then cover up fine detail. The other option for painting your part is to paint the part as soon as you remove the cast part from the mold and after you remove any flash while the resin is still curing. Although the resin is demoldable, the casting resin is still curing and if painted during the first 5 or 10 minutes of casting the part, the resin will still crosslink with the paint to give you not only a mechanical bond but also a chemical bond between the paint and the cast piece. Paints have built in UV stabilizers which then block out the UV light from ever reaching the casting resin which could affect the color.
Yes! We recommend lacquers or acrylics but you may also use synthetics or enamels. A lacquer primer may be needed to assure the long tem effectiveness of the paint. You may wish to paint your silicone mold before casting. Paint the mold with a fast drying acrylic or clear coat. Once it is completely dry, cast your piece. When you demold the part you will pull out a painted piece. The Amazing Casting Resin will chemically bond to the dried paint. The other option is to paint the part as soon as it comes out of the mold while the resin is still curing to allow the curing resin to crosslink with the paint.
Moisture contamination in urethanes causes foaming. If it foams quite a bit, most likely the moisture is right in the Amazing Casting Resin. The moisture is usually in the A-side. There is not a full proof method of removing moisture from your system. Typically the B side will crystallize when moisture is present. The A side, however, will not look any different. Moisture is absorbed through the air and therefore is very important to put the caps back on the bottles as soon as you are done measuring out the amount you need for your next pour. Do not leave the caps off for any extended period of time.
Yes. You may use any DRY filler and add it to your A & B prior to mixing the two equal parts together to achieve different looks, weight, or density to your cast piece. If there is any moisture in your filler, it will make the resin foam. Therefore, make sure your filler is dry. Examples of types of fillers would be: playground sand ... gives you a fine granite or sandstone look, porcelain ... for cold cast porcelain, aluminum ... adds weight, etc.